Sunday, September 27, 2009

Hello Reef

Yesterday I was lucky enough to have a friend of mine, Dave Baker, in the water taking photos. It was meant to be a huge swell day but the direction was off, and there were not too many waves coming through at Kuau. We all sat on the bench for half an hour watching the light winds and small waves with long breaks in between sets. I decided to go out on my 4.7m despite the meek conditions.  As soon as I got through the waves, the wind and waves picked up. I was way over powered but charged the waves anyway. After a few good rides, I fell on an inside jibe and was in the impact zone for a huge set.  I had no luck trying to duck under the first wave that hit. My mast was riped out of my hand. I got the full on washer machine, and hit the bottom reef with force on my shin. I was so deep my ears felt the pressure and I didn't know what way was up.  When I finally got to the surface, there was just enough time for a small breath before the next wave hit me on the head, then the next and the next. By then my gear was quite a ways away and a long swim with only one good leg to kick. I could see my shin was all bloody and gross. When I got my gear I went straight back to the beach.  By that time, Dave was just getting in the water with his camera. I got some ice, rested for bit and changed to my 4.2m sail. 
The second session was much better. I was perfectly powered and comfortable charging the waves. I also stayed out of the impact zone. Hopefully Dave got some good pictures. Look forward to seeing them soon. 

1 comment:

  1. Great story and shots look great too.........but there will be way better ones for you to post soon! I jus feel it! Nice new board you have........cant wait for some waves and right wind conditions!
    Aloha Dave Baker
    P.S. You were not the only one to take some GAS!!!!